Our final and most important destination for our study was Potosi, once the richest city in South America due to the formerly thriving mining industry there. Rumored to be the highest city in the world, Potosi is located at an elevation of 14,000 feet, so we felt the effects of the altitude even more acutely here than in La Paz.
The bus ride there was a particularly memorable one. We took an overnight bus on which we had semi-camas (seats that lean back to sort of become a bed) for the 10 hour ride. On every other bus, it had seemed like it was best to try to get seats at the front of the bus, the least smelly location. This was a double decker bus, so Sue and I were really excited to be sitting in the very first seats with a great view of the road ahead. But as soon as the bus started driving, we realized we would get more than we bargained for. The bus was not heated, and moreover a crack in the windshield caused an ice cold breeze to blow directly at those of us in the front seat for the next 10 hours. We were so unbearably cold, sleeping was really out of the question. At around 2 AM, the bus stopped in Oruro for a break, and Joe and Sue got out of the bus in search of a blanket. Although nothing but small tea shops were open at 2 AM, Joe convinced one lady to sell us a clean used blanket for 45 Bolivianos, twice the regular price for a blanket, but well worth it.
We were picked up at the bus terminal by Professor Freddy Llanos, a professor of engineering at the
Universidad Autonoma Tomas Frias (UATF) in Potosi. He kindly brought us back to his house for some hot tea, and we warmed up there for a bit. We had very little down time in Potosi, and didn't waste a moment. As soon as the university opened, we went to visit the laboratory facilities of CIMA and JICA, where the EIA engineers had previously done some of their analysis work. Next, we went to visit the owners of the Kumurana mine, to make arrangements to conduct our study.
The owner of the mine was very gracious in wanting to help us, but the politics of being a mine owner are such that relations are tense with the surrounding communities. Thus, we were advised to go to the mine to talk directly to the community representatives about our project. In the three days we spent in Potosi, we interviewed a group of about 10 miners, and 50 more people from the communities of Ockoruru-Kantuyu and La Lava, two of the 15 communities located downstream from the Kumurana and Andacava mines.
Pictured here is Cerro Rico, the largest mine in the Potosi region and most famous for its history of silver mining.
Llama crossing!
During one of our afternoons in Potosi, we were invited to take part in a meeting with the Prefectura of the communities we hoped to conduct our study in. People have always seemed unquestioningly supportive of our study, but for the first time in our trip, we experienced some criticism and resistance to our work at this meeting. It turns out that people have known for over 40 years about water contamination from the mines being a problem in these regions, but nothing thus far has been done about it. Representatives from the communities were frustrated that people have come in and out of the area for years, doing studies about the water, but they don't return to follow through with the work. For us, having the best intentions of carrying out a sustainable project with reliable people, this was very frustrating to hear and deal with, but it was important to understand the situation from the community's point of view, and was an exercise in patience for us to discuss our perspective with the communities and governing officials. In the end, everyone was still supportive of our study, but it brought to light the importance of communication and local involvement in the projects that we do.
Cerro Rico, lit up at night
The bus ride there was a particularly memorable one. We took an overnight bus on which we had semi-camas (seats that lean back to sort of become a bed) for the 10 hour ride. On every other bus, it had seemed like it was best to try to get seats at the front of the bus, the least smelly location. This was a double decker bus, so Sue and I were really excited to be sitting in the very first seats with a great view of the road ahead. But as soon as the bus started driving, we realized we would get more than we bargained for. The bus was not heated, and moreover a crack in the windshield caused an ice cold breeze to blow directly at those of us in the front seat for the next 10 hours. We were so unbearably cold, sleeping was really out of the question. At around 2 AM, the bus stopped in Oruro for a break, and Joe and Sue got out of the bus in search of a blanket. Although nothing but small tea shops were open at 2 AM, Joe convinced one lady to sell us a clean used blanket for 45 Bolivianos, twice the regular price for a blanket, but well worth it.
We were picked up at the bus terminal by Professor Freddy Llanos, a professor of engineering at the Universidad Autonoma Tomas Frias (UATF) in Potosi. He kindly brought us back to his house for some hot tea, and we warmed up there for a bit. We had very little down time in Potosi, and didn't waste a moment. As soon as the university opened, we went to visit the laboratory facilities of CIMA and JICA, where the EIA engineers had previously done some of their analysis work. Next, we went to visit the owners of the Kumurana mine, to make arrangements to conduct our study.
The owner of the mine was very gracious in wanting to help us, but the politics of being a mine owner are such that relations are tense with the surrounding communities. Thus, we were advised to go to the mine to talk directly to the community representatives about our project. In the three days we spent in Potosi, we interviewed a group of about 10 miners, and 50 more people from the communities of Ockoruru-Kantuyu and La Lava, two of the 15 communities located downstream from the Kumurana and Andacava mines.
Pictured here is Cerro Rico, the largest mine in the Potosi region and most famous for its history of silver mining.
Llama crossing!
During one of our afternoons in Potosi, we were invited to take part in a meeting with the Prefectura of the communities we hoped to conduct our study in. People have always seemed unquestioningly supportive of our study, but for the first time in our trip, we experienced some criticism and resistance to our work at this meeting. It turns out that people have known for over 40 years about water contamination from the mines being a problem in these regions, but nothing thus far has been done about it. Representatives from the communities were frustrated that people have come in and out of the area for years, doing studies about the water, but they don't return to follow through with the work. For us, having the best intentions of carrying out a sustainable project with reliable people, this was very frustrating to hear and deal with, but it was important to understand the situation from the community's point of view, and was an exercise in patience for us to discuss our perspective with the communities and governing officials. In the end, everyone was still supportive of our study, but it brought to light the importance of communication and local involvement in the projects that we do.
Cerro Rico, lit up at night
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